Day 5: Make Waistband and attach
Note: The waistband instructions are the same for making the skirt with or without a lining.
Because our skirt is asymmetrical, it’s important to pay attention to our left and right sides. When I refer to the left side of the skirt, that is the side that is on the left side of the body when it is worn. This skirt is intended to be worn with the right side overlapping the left side. So when you put your skirt on, you put the back against your back, pull the left side across the front and then the right side goes on top. If you get confused, refer back to the line drawing of the pattern.
If you’re making View A, then your left and right front waistband pieces are the same and you don’t need to fret much. With right sides together, stitch the front waistband pieces to the back waistband. Press seams open.
First, let’s make the loop that will hold the D-rings. Fold the loop right sides together along the fold line and stitch using a 5/8 inch seam allowance. Trim the seam allowance, turn right side out and press. Slip the D-rings onto the loop and fold in half with the raw edges together. Pin the loop to the left side of the back waistband, just below the center fold line. Baste in place. There should be 5/8 inch space between the bottom of the waistband and the loop.
NOTE: In the photo, these D-rings are a little too bit. If you have bigger D-rings, you can increase the height of the waistband to match. To calculate the width to cut, multiply the finished height of the waistband by 2 and add .75 inch seam allowance.
For view C, you need to make the tie that will be at the left hip. Fold the tie in half lengthwise and pin. Stitch along the long edge and one short end. Trim the seam allowance and turn right side out. I find it pretty easy to turn right side out by pushing the sewn short end inside the tube using a knitting needle. Keep pushing and wiggling until the right side starts to come out of the opening. Then pull it the rest of the way. Press.
Pin the tie to the left side of the back waistband, just below the center fold line. Baste in place. There should be 5/8 inch space between the bottom of the waistband and the tie.
All views: Match notches and sew the left waistband piece to the back waistband at the short ends.
Match notches and sew the right waistband piece to the back waistband at the short ends. For views B and C it is the long tie belt/waistband piece. The interfaced end should be attached to the back waistband. Press waistband seams open.
Optional: Fold the waistband in half with wrong sides together and press. Press the long un-notched edge to the wrong side a scant 5/8 inch.
Now is a good time to try on your waistband and check that you’ve assembled the pieces correctly. It’s also a great time to check the fit. Note, the side seams in the waistband also make it easier to adjust the size of the skirt.
Now we’re ready to attach the waistband to the skirt. With right sides together, match and pin the side seams and notches.
For views B and C, the right end of the waistband will significantly extend past the skirt. The interfaced end will extend 5/8 inch, just like on the left side.
When the notches are matched correctly, the end of the waistband will extend 5/8 inch beyond the edge of the skirt. To find this point, measure a square 5/8 inch from the corner of the waistband. In the photo, you can see this point is marked in light blue.
Stitch using a 5/8 inch seam allowance being careful to not let the seam allowances fold over. Backstitch at the beginning and end to the seam.
Next, we need to finish assembling the waistband. Let’s start with the left side. Fold in half with right sides together. Stitch the short end from the fold to the stitching line for the waistband/skirt. If you’re making view A, repeat for the right side.
For views B/C, we need to make the tie that extends from the right front waistband. Fold the tie in half right sides together and pin. Stitch along the short end, pivot at the corner and continue stitching until you reach the skirt. Trim the seam allowance and turn the waistband right side out.
Press the waistband/skirt seam up towards the waistband. Fold the waistband in half lengthwise and press. Fold the raw edge of the waistband in so that it just covers the seam. Pin in place.
From the right side, carefully stitch in the ditch to hold the back side of the waistband in place. You’ll be stitching on the skirt as close to the waistband as possible. This stitching will be almost invisible when done. Alternately, you can stitch the waistband down by hand.
View A: Try on the skirt and mark where to place the button hole. Make buttonhole in right side front waistband. Sew button to left front waistband.
Congratulations! That was the hardest day. You are almost done sewing your Nita Wrap Skirt. In Day 6, we'll hem the skirt and do a few finishing touches. Happy sewing!