Moodboard – Pleated Pants

Not all that long ago, pleated pants were so not cool and bootcuts were all the rage. But fashion inevitably changes resurfacing that which we thought we would never love again. I quite clearly remember a time when pleated pants were on the "Don't" list but now you can't go anywhere without seeing a pair. As evidenced by my moodboard above, they look especially good with a narrow hem and heels. Way cool, right?

Clockwise from top left:
1. Pleated High Waisted Trousers from Forever 21
2. Selected Sadia Sporty Peg Trousers from Asos
3. Chloe Pleated Pants with Ankle Snaps from Nieman Marcus
4. Rabens Saloner Stretch Silk Pants from Huset
5. By Malene Birger Ellua Pants from Huset
6. Easy Pleat Pant from Free People
7. 3.1 Phillip Lim Draped Pocket Check Trousers from ShopBop
8. Linen Two Tone Double Pleat Trouser from Alexander Wang

For more pleated pants inspiration, check out my Pretty Clothes pinboard. Check back in later this week to see my own pair of pleated pants that I made as part of my new handmade Spring Wardrobe.

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Spring Wardrobe Sewing Plans

After a lot of planning, thinking and scheming, I finally decided upon these six pieces to make for my new spring wardrobe. I stuck a rather neutral palette of greys and blues that will easily fit into my existing wardrobe. The selections are on trend, inspired by my Spring Wardrobe inspiration board and fill in the gaps of my current wardrobe. Oh, and I'm only using stash fabrics!!!

Here are the details (with links):

1. Salmon Silk Blouse 
Pattern: Self Drafted
I'm planning to wing it on this one and make a blouse similar to the one I made for this outfit.

2. Slouch Top 
Pattern: DIY Couture
I got the book DIY Couture for Christmas this last year. I haven't made anything from it yet but I'm pretty excited to do so.

3. Navy Knit Top
Pattern: Drape Drape 2, No. 4
I have Drape Drape 2 in Japanese so wish me luck with this one. :) You can find it here in English.

4. Pencil Skirt
Even though there are lots of pencil skirt patterns out there, I have yet to find a favorite. I'm planning to use Simplicity 4047 (now out of print) for this one.

5. Pleated Pants
This is probably my most "out there" choice 'cause you know when do you really need knit pleated pants? But between Vogue V8657 and all the pants in Drape Drape 3, I just really, really want to make some for myself.

6. Pleated Mid-Calf Skirt
I was totally inspired by this photo to make this skirt. I'm still debating a little bit whether to make a gathered waistband or a pleated one.

I'm really looking forward to making these new clothes. Keep checking back in to see how I'm coming along! Are you making any new clothes for spring?

Check out the earlier posts in this series here:
Spring Wardrobe Inspiration
Spring Wardrobe Planning Part 1
Spring Wardrobe Planning Part 2

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Spring Wardrobe Planning Part 2

Spring Wardrobe Planning fabrics

How to plan a Spring Wardrobe Part 2 is all about decision making. In Part 1 you came up with some great ideas and now it's time to put it into action. Truth be told, this part was not easy for me. There's so much I want to make but I want this collection of things to all go together, so I had to pare down my ideas quite a bit. Take that stack of fabric up there for instance. I'm only going to use four or five of those fabrics. The others are ones I love but will just save for later. Let's get started.

Step 3: Pick your fabrics
Seeing as this is a Spring wardrobe, look for fabrics that will fit the season both in weight and in color. You might have an awesome wool but you probably don't need a new wool coat for spring. Swap it out with a lighter cotton jacket and you're on the right track. While selecting your fabrics, keep in mind your inspiration board and the silhouettes you want to make. I made my planning a little more challenging by restricting myself to fabrics I already own.

Step 4: Match fabrics and patterns
I learned early on in my sewing ventures that fabric selection can make or break a garment. It really only takes two or three times of making something in the totally wrong (or just not quite right) fabric to realize this. A few things to consider when matching fabric to a pattern:

  • Fabric drapeConsider how the fabric hangs. Is it stiff or flowy? How will it look when made up in your intended garment? Is the fabric going to stand away from the body or cling to it?
  • Color
    First off, will the color suit you? If not, don't even think about that fabric. It will be a waste of time. There's nothing worse than spending a week making something to discover that when you put it on you look, well, kind of gross and sickly. (Which is precisely why I avoid off white, yellow and other ruddy, yellow toned colors.) Second, we're building a wardrobe here so you must think about how all of these colors fit together. Are you likely to wear bright purple pants? Maybe that bright purple will get more wear if it's a skirt.
  • Print
    When using a fabric with a print, consider the size of the elements in the design. When that print is cut up into pieces and then stitched back together, how will it look? A giant flower print might look great as a circle skirt but not so great as a fitted bolero.  

Step 5: Reassess silhouettes and fabric
So you have a stack of patterns and a pile of fabric. And sure, you like all of your fabrics and patterns but some probably need to be cut from the list. This is a good time to go back and look at your inspiration board. Think about whether that polka dot, vintage style blouse really fits in with the cool, drapey vibe you're going for. Put aside the fabrics and patterns that don't fit your inspiration and/or needs.

Step 6: Make final selections
Steps 5 and 6 are pretty similar but culling is very important. Take a good look at your selections and ask yourself, is this a balanced collection? Does it achieve my original goals?  At first I was worried that I had too many dark fabrics and that my Spring wardrobe would look too wintery. Including the already owned garments in my plans relieved those fears. I decided that if I have two lights and two darks in each category (pants, skirts, tops), it will be balanced. The same could go for solids and prints. I found it really helpful to draw out my plans and include drawings of garments that I already own and plan on wearing with the new stuff. At the last minute I cut two blouses that just didn't fit the style of my Spring wardrobe. I can always make those later. Make your final list of your garments and gather your notions. It's time to start sewing!

Next week I will reveal what I'm going to make for my Spring wardrobe. I can't wait to show you!

Also see:
Spring Wardrobe Inspiration
Spring Wardrobe Planning Part 1

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