I’ve had my eye on the Lander Pants pattern by True Bias since it was first released. And by “had my eye on”, I mean I just totally LOVED the silhouette and wanted to try it out. The pattern has been wildly popular online and every version I’ve seen has confirmed that I need to make a pair of my own. But I took my time. Because I have a long list of things to sew and as I’ve very recently learned, I’m a rebel. I’m not a rebel in the traditional sense (which I say with the self-awareness of knowing that a rebel would never admit to being traditional). I’m a rebel according to the Four Tendencies theory created by Gretchen Rubin. I started listening to her interview on the Love to Sew podcast last night and of course had to take the quiz. At first, I really thought that none of the categories applied to me, that I am without definition and that four categories can not fully encompass one’s personality and character. But the more I thought about it. The more I think that the “Rebel” fits me.
Ok. So how does this apply to sewing? Well. I just don’t sew anything if I don’t feel like it. I’ll do it when I feel like it. And I am not at all concerned with what other people are doing. That’s not to say that I don’t LOVE seeing what other people make. Or that I can’t keep a deadline. Or feel a sense of duty and obligation. I just tend to follow my own whims. A lot.
Back in August I made a list of projects that I wanted to make this fall, including a top 3. The Lander Pants were right at the top of the list. (By the way, I’m halfway done with that list. Woohoo!) I started working on muslins (test garments) for this pattern earlier this summer but got distracted by vacation sewing for my trip to Hawaii and honestly a little muslin fatigue. I think I did 4 muslins to get the rise just right. But I’m so glad that I put in the work.
All of those muslins was just to figure out the crotch depth. I kept increasing by just a little bit. Then a little bit more. And a little bit more. Anyway, I ended up adding a whopping 2.75 inches to the length of the rise and I’m so glad that I did. The waistband hits at my natural waist and there’s no uncomfortable pulling at the crotch. Because I added so much length to the rise, I also decided to lengthen the fly 1.5 inches. And I added one more button for a total of five. I’m really glad that I decided to add that length and button. It looks really natural with the length of the rise.
Using my measurements as a guide, I cut a size 10 in the hips and graded to a size 6 at the waist. Because I’m #sewingtall and have a long torso, I added 2.5 inches to the length of the leg (in addition to the rise adjustment). For reference, this pattern is drafted for someone who is 5’6” and I am 5’11”. My waist is about 28.5-29” and hips are 39.5”, which surprisingly fits perfectly with the size chart albeit across a couple sizes.
One more sidebar for today’s post! I find it so interesting how different sizing charts are between different pattern companies. For the Landers, my waist is a 6. For my Dawn jeans it was a 10. And because this silhouette is so similar to the Persephone Pants, I looked up those too out of curiosity and I’m closest to a size 8 on that chart. I feel like using all these different charts makes it so much easier to put less weight into one’s size because it changes all the time. There’s no saying “oh I’m a size 6” because that means something totally different. And the super great thing about sewing is that we can use more than one size for each garment. When I was in high school and learning to sew, I really struggled to find dresses to wear because my bust was always at least 2 sizes larger than the rest of my body. It’s still the same today except that I don’t even try to go shopping anymore.
This pattern was really easy to sew up and just an all around pleasure. I think it would be easy enough for an intermediate or adventurous beginner to attempt. True Bias always provides great instructions and has a very helpful sewalong on her blog. After deciding on the fit, I really didn’t struggle with anything. For the topstitching, I used navy thread and did a triple stitch. I kind of hate sewing a triple stitch because it takes so long and I’m impatient but it does look really nice to have a thicker stitch on this denim.
So, you might be thinking that this fabric looks familiar and you are correct! This is the exact same fabric that I used for my Megan Nielsen Dawn Jeans that I posted a week or two ago. It’s a rigid (non-stretch) denim that I got from The Fabric Store’s Los Angeles location (now sadly closed). If I had to venture a guess, I would say it’s a 12oz denim. It’s really perfect for jeans but maybe a little heavy for this wide leg style. I don’t think they have this exact fabric currently in the shop but there are two similar ones: a rigid 12oz denim and an 11oz denim with 2% lycra. This fabric was great to work with. It behaved just as a denim should.
I love the exposed fly and installing the buttons was super easy thanks to this little anvil that I bought from Blackbird Fabrics. It really makes installing buttons and rivets a joy.
I really love these pants and have already worn them three or four times since I finished them last week. They are heavily competing with the Dawn Jeans for favorite jeans right now. When I make the Lander Pants again, I will consider making them a little bit smaller. These are totally comfortable but feel a little loose. I do tend to wear my clothes with a lot of ease so I’m a little nervous to size down because I hate feeling uncomfortable. BUT. I think it would work to take out just a smidgen of the ease. Also, looking at the photo of the back view, I think I may need a swayback adjustment. I’m so glad that I finally made this pattern and am looking forward to sewing it again (maybe in a nice, heavy linen).
P.S. In these photos, I’m wearing either a cap sleeve hack of the Nettie Bodysuit or an early version of my pattern, the Ali Sweatshirt.
