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How to Sew a Patch Pocket – Lou Box Dress Sewalong Day 6

January 17, 2018 Beth – Sew DIY
How to Sew a Patch Pocket – Lou Box Dress Sewalong Day 6 | Sew DIY

Today I’m going to share a few tips for sewing patch pockets with knit fabric. These techniques can be used for the bodice pocket on the Lou Box Dress 2 or Lou Box Dress 1, view A or for the larger patch pockets on the Lou Box Dress 1, view B. Pockets are not very challenging when sewn with a cooperative linen or cotton but can become quite tricky when using a slippery silk or jersey. But with some patience and one or two of these tricks, you’ll be able to sew beautiful topstitched patch pockets. 

How to Sew a Patch Pocket – Lou Box Dress Sewalong Day 6 | Sew DIY

In the instructions for my Lou Box patterns, I recommend attaching the pocket towards the end of construction as I like to try on the top and decide where to place the pocket while I’m wearing it. However, it may be easier for you to attach the pocket earlier in construction, even before stitching the shoulder seams. The pattern provides suggested pocket placement if you choose to sew on your pocket earlier in the construction process. 

Tips for sewing patch pockets

TIP 1: Glue Stick
My favorite way to hold my pockets in place is a regular old glue stick. Just swipe a bit of glue on the wrong side of the pocket (just on the seam line) and stick it in place. You don’t need a lot of glue, just a touch will do. In case you're wondering, I haven’t had any trouble with the glue gumming up my needle. 

TIP 2: Wash away adhesive tape
Ok, so tip 1 and 2 are actually kind of the same thing – glue basting – just different tools. If the glue stick won't provide enough help holding that pocket in place, you can buy a roll of wash-away adhesive tape. It has more adhesive power than the glue stick and it’s easy to sew through. The only drawback I’ve found is that it takes a good washing or two to fully wash away the adhesive. 

TIP 3: Spray starch
Spray starch will help stabilize a lightweight or drapey fabric. You can use it in combination with either of the two above options for extra stabilization.

TIP 4: Use a hump jumper
Yes, you can actually buy a tool called a hump jumper! It's a little plastic device that you stick under the back end of your presser foot to lift it up to the same height as (in this case) the pocket. You can also use a folded piece of fabric as I'll show you in the steps below.

TIP 5: Sew slowly
Use a walking foot or place tissue paper under the fabric if you need help moving the fabric under the presser foot. Sew slowly and use your presser foot as a guide to keep the stitching straight and even.

How to Sew a Patch Pocket – Lou Box Dress Sewalong Day 6 | Sew DIY

How to Sew a Patch Pocket

Today I’m going to discuss sewing a patch pocket with knit fabric. If you are using a woven fabric, check out this post from the Lou Box Top sewalong.

Step 1: Finish edges of pocket. With right sides together, fold top of pocket along fold line. Stitch from folded edge to edge of pocket. 

How to Sew a Patch Pocket – Lou Box Dress Sewalong Day 6 | Sew DIY

Step 2: Turn pocket right side out and press. Fold in raw edges 1/2 inch to wrong side and press. If desired, topstitch the top edge of the pocket about 1.5 inches from the top folded edge. 

Step 3: Use the pocket placement guidelines to pin the pocket onto the dress. Try on the dress and adjust placement if desired. 

How to Sew a Patch Pocket – Lou Box Dress Sewalong Day 6 | Sew DIY

Step 4: If you are using a tricky fabric, use one of the adhesives mentioned above to glue tack the pocket in place. In general, I like to use four pins place in the center of the pocket, pointing towards the corners but not in the stitching line. In this position, the pins will hold the pocket in place without any warping and the glue will hold the edge down.

How to Sew a Patch Pocket – Lou Box Dress Sewalong Day 6 | Sew DIY

Step 5: I find that when I'm at a corner of the pocket and the height of the fabric is uneven, my presser foot can get caught in the layers and have a hard time moving which means that the stitching will look all jumbled. To help the presser foot walk along, I fold up a scrap of fabric and slide it under the presser foot with the edge butting up against the edge of the pocket. This creates and even height of fabric. You won't stitch on the scrap of fabric at all and it will fall away after a few stitches. When you get to the bottom corners of the pocket, don't forget to put the hump jumper back in place for the first few stitches.

Today I'm going to use a twin needle to topstitch. If you don't have a twin needle you can use a zig zag stitch to topstitch the pocket in place. After you're done stitching, pull the loose threads to the wrong side, tie in a knot and trim.

How to Sew a Patch Pocket – Lou Box Dress Sewalong Day 6 | Sew DIY

First off, I recommend reading my tutorial here for tips for sewing with a twin needle. To turn a corner with a twin needle, stitch to a corner, raise the presser foot and raise the needle. Very carefully turn the fabric 90 degrees moving the fabric as little as possible. By hand lower the needle into what was the right hand side of the double row of stitching. Put your hump jumper under the back of the presser foot. Stitch to the second corner and repeat. Pull loose threads to the wrong side, tie in a knot and trim.

That's it! Pocket all done. See below for the rest of the sewalong schedule, links to the patterns or to catch up on previous posts. Happy sewing!


LOU BOX DRESS SEWALONG SCHEDULE

DAY 1 RTW Inspiration Tues Jan 9
DAY 2 Fabric & Supplies Wed Jan 10
DAY 3 How to Print and Store PDF patterns Thurs Jan 11
DAY 4 How to Finish a Knit Neckline Mon Jan 15
DAY 5 How to Finish a Woven Neckline Tues Jan 16
DAY 6 How to Sew a Patch Pocket Wed Jan 17
DAY 7 How to Sew In-Seam Pockets with a Serger Thurs Jan 18
DAY 8 How to Sew Lou Box Dress 2 Scoop Pockets Mon Jan 22
Day 9 How to Sew Lou Box Dress 1, View A Sleeves Tues Jan 23
DAY 10 How to Sew Lou Box Dress 1, View B Sleeves Wed Jan 24
DAY 11 How to Sew Lou Box Dress 2 Waist Casing Thurs Jan 25
DAY 12 How to Sew a Hem Facing Fri Jan 26

If you haven't picked up your pattern yet, they are available in the shop at the links below.

Lou Box Dress 1
Lou Box Dress 2
Lou Box Dress 1 & 2 Bundle
In How to Sew, Lou Box Dress Sewalong
← How to Sew In-Seam Pockets with a Serger – Lou Box Dress Sewalong Day 7How to Sew a Woven Neck Binding in the Round – Lou Box Dress Sewalong Day 5 →
About SewDIY

about sew diy

Welcome to Sew DIY. My name is Beth and this blog is dedicated to sharing inspiration, sewing tips and tutorials for creating your own DIY life. Email me at sewdiyblog [@] gmail [.com]

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Have you ever woken up in the morning and run to your sewing table to admire and commune with the project you worked on the night before? 🙋 Some projects are just so exciting and addictive that they keep me up late at night and are still on my mind when I wake in the morning. 💗
I've been working on piecing these scraps a little at a time over the last week and it's so exciting to see them come together into bigger pieces of fabric. It really feels magical. ✨ 
I've also been really excited to see that other people are exploring ways to use scraps and reduce waste. @amynicolestudio started the #theyearofslowsewing and is finding ways to use scraps as decorative elements in her garments and is even making earrings with scraps! 🙌 and over at @thecraftsessions Felicia has started #theyearofthescrap to use leftover fabric and yarn in thoughtfully planned projects. ✂️ It must be something in the air right now that's inspiring so many of us to use what we already have and hopefully reduce our impact on the environment. 💙✂️🌎 How do you like to use your scraps? What are barriers that prevent you from using them?
Did you see the photos of snow in LA yesterday? ❄️😱 I'm not acclimated to this kind of weather and it doesn't help that I kon-mari'd most of my winter clothes a few years ago. 🤣 I'll be semi-patiently waiting for spring to arrive and looking forward to wearing all of the seasonally inappropriate things I've been making lately. ✂️⠀
One garment at the top of the list is this #judithjumpsuit hack. It's been sadly hanging in the closet just waiting for its debut. For more info on this jumpsuit, I have a full post over on the blog. ⠀
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#youcanhackit #imakefashion #sewcialists #sewing #isew #ilovesewing #ilovetosew #sewersgonnasew #diyfashion #makersgonnamake #makeitsewcial #handmade #sewingproject #instasew #sewistsofinstagram #happysewing
Have you seen this AHMAZING hack of the #nitawrapskirt by @mariefleurine ? 💙🌈😍 It's seriously inspiring and reminded me of how much potential this pattern has. ✨ This pattern is available in my shop in sizes 00-22 (hips 33-50" / 84-127 cm). Link in profile to the shop and make sure to go read @mariefleurine 's blog post for all the details on how she hacked the pattern. ✂️ .
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#youcanhackit #indiesewingpattern #indiesewing #handmadewardrobe #diyfashion
Today on the blog, I’m very pleased to be sharing my #calyerpants designed by @frenchnavynow_ ✨💙😍 I love that these pants are super comfy but still look really sophisticated. I did not make a muslin but my standard adjustments worked perfectly. 👊🙌 Now I just need some slightly warmer weather so that I can start wearing these every. single. day.⁣ ⠀
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Head over to the blog to read all the details, including my #sewingtall modifications. ⁣⠀
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Fabric is linen/viscose slub in navy from @blackbirdfabrics⁣ I would definitely use this fabric again. It's perfect for trousers patterns that need some drape. 🌈⠀
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#memadeeveryday #diyfashion #memadewardrobe #indiesewing #blackbirdfabrics #ilovesewing #happysewing

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Some of the links on this site are “affiliate links.” This means if you click on the link and purchase the item, I will receive an affiliate commission. I only recommend products or services I personally own or genuinely like. If a post or giveaway is sponsored, I will clearly state so in the body of a post.

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DIY Pleated Pants – Review of the Calyer Pants pattern by French Navy
DIY Pleated Pants – Review of the Calyer Pants pattern by French Navy
about 4 days ago

Most of the year, trousers or jeans are part of my everyday wardrobe. My favorite style of trousers are a loose fit with a tapered leg. Two of my favorite me-made versions are the Alexandria Trousers and the Arenite Pants. I have worn both of these patterns a ton. So when I saw the Calyer Pants, I knew immediately that they’d be a good fit for me.