In today’s video, I’m sharing how to draft a hem facing. A hem facing is an alternative finish to the traditional fold and stitch. Hem facings are especially useful when sewing a curved hem or a hem with a special shape like scallops. In the video, I show how to draft the hem facing using a printed pattern and how to do it digitally in Adobe Illustrator. I hope you enjoy it!

You can watch the video above, or if it’s not working, you can watch it on YouTube here. For drafting on paper, go to 1:40. For drafting digitally, jump to 6:26.

In this video, I’m using my Miri Tank pattern and the Lou Box Dress 1 pattern.

TOOLS USED IN THIS VIDEO

Tracing Paper

French curve ruler

How to draft a hem facing using a paper pattern

Step 1: Place tracing paper over the hem of the pattern and tape in place. Decide how tall you would like the finished facing to be and add a seam allowance to that number. For our example, I'd like a 2" facing and a .25" seam allowance. So, I will draft the facing to be 2.25" high.

Step 2: Trace the hem edge of the pattern. Trace up the side of the pattern, equal to the desired height of the facing, plus the seam allowance.

Step 3: Use a ruler to mark the height of the facing at an even distance from the hem edge. Use the curved ruler to connect the lines (or eyeball it).

Step 4: Transfer markings for the grainline to the pattern and note the pattern piece and pattern name. If desired, add notches to the hem facing and garment hem.

To draft the hem facing digitally, I’m using Adobe Illustrator. This is a vector based program that you have to buy to use. (I believe students get a good discount.) A free alternative is Inkscape. I’ve downloaded it but haven’t used it very much. It looks very similar in function to Illustrator. I’m not planning to switch over because it would be a big learning curve for me. But, it’s worth checking out if you are doing digital pattern making for fun and have a limited budget. To edit your pattern digitally, you will need to be able to open your pattern files in Illustrator or Inkscape. Some patterns allow this, some do not.

I tried to go fairly slowly in the video and mention the key commands when I use them. I’ve been using Illustrator for almost 20 years now so I can go pretty quickly and key commands really speed up the process. Let me know if you have questions or requests for other tutorials. And, if you’d like to support this content, I invite you to visit the shop or you can donate by “buying me a coffee”. Happy sewing!

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Bucket Tote PDF Pattern

US$12.00

The Sew DIY Bucket Tote is the perfect "throw & go" bag with a wide top opening so you can easily see and access everything inside. This fully-lined tote is thoughtfully designed with an oval base, pleats at each end and exterior and interior pockets.

The pattern includes both regular and small sizes, giving you options for wherever life takes you. The regular size is perfect for a day at the pool or a short road trip while the small size can be used to carry your lunch or a small craft project.

Both sizes have two exterior patch pockets and one interior pocket. The regular size has a welt zippered pocket inside and the small size has an interior patch pocket. The handles are made from cotton webbing that are topstitched to the sides of the bag and secured in the bottom seam.

This digital pattern includes:

• Illustrated instruction booklet

• Print-at-home layered pattern (Letter/A4)

• US copy shop and A0 patterns

• Projector pattern

Scroll down for more details.

THIS IS NOT A PHYSICAL PRODUCT. After checkout, you will receive a link to the pattern that will be active for 24 hours after you click it. Prices are in USD.

Jodi Knit Pants PDF Sewing Pattern

US$14.00

The Jodi Wide Leg Knit pants are the perfect mix of style and comfort. These ankle length pants feature angled side seam pockets, a medium rise and a lightly gathered elastic waistband. These pants are easy to sew, comfortable to wear and have a stylish wide leg.

This pattern is rated as Advanced Beginner. It’s helpful to have experience sewing with knit fabric but this is easy enough to sew as your first knit fabric sewing project. There are blog posts in the sewalong to help you.

Theses pants are designed to have a “skim” fit with just a little bit of negative ease. You’ll have all the comfort of stretch knit fabric but none of the tightness of a garment like leggings. See the size chart for more details.

Model is 5’11” and is wearing a size E.

THIS IS NOT A PHYSICAL PRODUCT. After checkout, you will receive a link to the pattern that will be active for 24 hours after you click it. Prices are in USD.

Lela Skirt PDF Pattern

US$14.00

The Lela Skirt is a casual skirt featuring an elastic waist, straight silhouette and a split hem in either knee or mid-calf length. This is a beginner friendly pattern that is equally easy-to-sew as it is to wear. This pattern is designed to be mix-and-match for a total of 18 different designs. Select from a gently curved hem, an exaggerated curved hem or a straight hem. You can also choose between in-seam pockets, angled pockets or scoop pockets.

This digital pattern includes an illustrated, step-by-step instruction booklet, a print-at-home layered pattern for letter or A4 size paper, a US copy shop pattern and an A0 size pattern.

Model is 5’11” and is wearing a size 12.

THIS IS NOT A PHYSICAL PRODUCT. After checkout, you will receive a link to the pattern that will be active for 24 hours after you click it. Prices are in USD.

Miri Tank Top PDF Sewing Pattern

US$14.00

The Miri Tank is a wardrobe building basic that will quickly become the shirt you reach for most often. This simple-to-sew top can be worn with skirts, pants or shorts for a variety of everyday outfits, throughout the year.

This A-line shaped tank top is fitted with a bust dart and cropped to end at the high hip. View A features a classic rounded neckline and armholes, while View B sports a V-neck in the front and gently angled armholes and back neck shaping. Both views are finished with an all-in-one facing. When made in a linen or cotton, the tank will maintain its A-line shape while worn. When made in a drapey rayon or Tencel, the shape will hang closer to the body.

This beginner-friendly pattern is drafted for sizes 0-32 and includes three cup size options for all sizes. Choose from A/B cup, C/D cup or E/F cup for a customized fit through the bust.

This digital pattern includes an illustrated, step-by-step instruction booklet, a print-at-home layered pattern for letter or A4 size paper, a US copy shop pattern and an A0 size pattern. Pattern files are separated by cup size and view to reduce so that you can easily print only the pattern pieces that you need.

Model is 5’11” and is wearing a size 12 C/D cup.

THIS IS NOT A PHYSICAL PRODUCT. After checkout, you will receive a link to the pattern that will be active for 24 hours after you click it. Prices are in USD.

Lou Box Dress 1 PDF Pattern

US$14.00

The Lou Box Dress 1 is a loose-fitting cocoon style dress. Worn alone, it’s perfect for warm summer days. Paired with a sweater, tights and boots, it will take you through the colder months. Make it in linen for a casual look or printed silk for a luxurious night out. View A features a medium scoop neck, 3/4 length sleeves with cuffs, in-seam pockets and a knee-length skirt. View B features short cuff sleeves and patch pockets. Instructions are included for sewing the dress in both woven and knit fabrics.

This digital pattern includes an illustrated, step-by-step instruction booklet, a print-at-home layered pattern for letter or A4 size paper, a US copy shop pattern and an A0 size pattern.

Model is 5’11” and is wearing a size 12.

THIS IS NOT A PHYSICAL PRODUCT. After checkout, you will receive a link to the pattern that will be active for 24 hours after you click it. Prices are in USD.

Lou Box Top PDF Pattern

US$14.00

The Lou Box Top is a versatile, loose fitting top with two neckline options and three hem options, for a total of six different silhouettes. Designed with beginners in mind, the steps are very easy to follow, using the most basic techniques and the loose fit of the design requires minimal fitting. It's a great project for beginners looking to get their feet wet and for more experienced sewists who want to add some quick-to-make basics to their wardrobe.

This is a digital pdf pattern that includes a print-at-home pattern, copy shop pattern and illustrated instructions for both woven and knit fabrics. THIS IS NOT A PHYSICAL PRODUCT.

After checkout, you will receive a link to the pattern that will be active for 24 hours after you click it. Prices are in USD.

Ali Sweatshirt PDF Pattern

US$14.00

An oversized sweatshirt with drop-shoulders, dolman sleeves, a shoulder yoke and two-piece sleeves with optional topstitching. View A features a crew neck, a straight body for a gender neutral silhouette and an optional kangaroo pocket. View B is cropped with a scoop neck that narrows to the high hip for a more feminine style. The kangaroo pocket can also be used with View B.

This casual and sporty style is easy to sew and fun to wear. Wear it to the gym, to the beach or anywhere you need an extra layer of warmth. The roomy fit pairs well with jeans and leggings for everyday stylish comfort.

This digital pattern includes an illustrated, step-by-step instruction booklet, a print-at-home layered pattern for letter or A4 size paper, a US copy shop pattern and an A0 size pattern. Additionally, there is a printable color blocking worksheet to test out color arrangements before cutting your fabric.

Model is 5’11” and is wearing a size D.

THIS IS NOT A PHYSICAL PRODUCT. After checkout, you will receive a link to the pattern that will be active for 24 hours after you click it. Prices are in USD.

Nita Wrap Skirt PDF Pattern

US$14.00

The Nita Wrap Skirt is a stylish wrap skirt with a fitted silhouette and dramatic angled front. There are three length options and three waistband closure options that can easily be mixed and matched. The pattern features waist darts, a built in front facing and an optional lining.

Make the mini length in denim or corduroy for a fun, casual look. Or, pair a neutral twill fabric with the midi-length for a sophisticated look that will take you from the office to happy hour in style.

This skirt can be a bit revealing so there is also a full coverage option. The skirt also works well when worn with tights or leggings.

This digital pattern includes an illustrated, step-by-step instruction booklet, a print-at-home layered pattern for letter or A4 size paper, a US copy shop pattern and an A0 size pattern. The instruction booklet also includes tips for common pattern adjustments.

For additional help, there is a photo sewalong here.

Model is 5’11” and is wearing a size 12 skirt.

THIS IS NOT A PHYSICAL PRODUCT. After checkout, you will receive a link to the pattern that will be active for 24 hours after you click it. Prices are in USD.

Lou Box Sleeve Expansion PDF Pattern

US$6.00

The Lou Box series of patterns is designed to be mixed and matched easily for a treasure trove of options and hacking opportunities. This expansion pack includes the four sleeve options from the Lou Box Dress patterns and can be used with the Lou Box Top or Lou Box Dress patterns. Adding sleeves to the Lou Box Top opens up a wealth of possibilities for your everyday wardrobe. Playing around with these design options is a great way to have fun and explore your creativity and personal style.

Sleeve styles included:

Short sleeves with cuffs
Short cuff sleeves
Three quarter tapered sleeves
Full length tapered sleeves

Please note: The Lou Box Top or one of the Lou Box Dress patterns is needed to complete this pattern. (If you already own both Lou Box Dress patterns, you do not need this expansion pack.)

This is a digital pdf pattern that includes a print-at-home pattern, copy shop pattern, A0 pattern and illustrated instructions. THIS IS NOT A PHYSICAL PRODUCT.

After checkout, you will receive a link to the pattern that will be active for 24 hours after you click it. Prices are in USD.

Eva Tops and Sundress PDF Sewing Pattern

US$14.00

These semi-fitted tops and sundress feature a square neckline, side bust darts and are fitted at the back with a combination of narrow elastic and criss-crossed lacing. View A is a crop top that ends at the waistline. View B has a ruffled peplum and ends at the high hip. View C is a dress with a calf-length skirt and ruffle at the hem.

The pattern is a hybrid of a traditional pattern that you need to print and a zero-waste style pattern. You will need to print (or project) the front bodice and front facing pattern pieces. The remaining pattern pieces are rectangles that you can draw directly on your fabric (or paper) and then cut out, saving you paper and fabric.

This digital pattern includes an illustrated, step-by-step instruction booklet, a print-at-home layered pattern for letter or A4 size paper, a US copy shop pattern, an A0 size pattern and a projector pattern. All pattern files have layers. Pattern files are separated by cup size so that you can easily print only the pattern pieces that you need.

Visit the sewalong for more information, tips and tutorials.

Model is 5’11” and is wearing a size 12 C/D cup.

THIS IS NOT A PHYSICAL PRODUCT. After checkout, you will receive a link to the pattern that will be active for 24 hours after you click it. Prices are in USD.

How to draft a hem facing (on paper and digitally)

Beth – Sew DIY