I used to be really scared to sew knit fabrics but after a lot of research and a lot of practice, I love sewing with knits. One misconception is that you need to have a serger (aka overlocker) to sew knit fabrics when in fact most conventional machines come with a variety of stitches that are made for sewing knit fabric. In this video, I share the tools you need to sew knit fabric, some tips for preventing your fabric from stretching and demonstrate the stitches available on a conventional sewing machine that can be used to sew knit fabric.
Tips for sewing knit fabric without a serger
1 Ballpoint, jersey or stretch needle
It’s important to use a ballpoint (aka jersey) needle when sewing knits because the shape of the needle will prevent holes being formed when you stitch. Sometimes, a stretch needle works better, with fewer skipped stitches, especially when sewing specialty fabric, such as swimwear or lingerie elastic.
2 Walking foot
As I demonstrate in the video, a walking foot will help move the fabric under the presser foot and prevent it from stretching out. If you don’t have a walking foot, try putting tissue paper under your fabric. By the way, the sewing machine I reference in the video is the Brother cs6000i, it comes with a walking foot and all the stitches demonstrated in the video.
3 Choose a stitch with stretch
These stitches include a zig zag stitch, triple zig zag stitch, lightning stitch and triple straight stitch (aka triple stretch stitch).
4 Use an overlock stitch to finish raw edges
Your conventional sewing machine likely has a few overlock stitches that simulate the appearance of stitches created on a serger. Use these to finish a raw edge before hemming and topstitching.
5 Topstitching
My favorite way to topstitch knit fabric is with a twin needle. I have a video about that right here. Alternately, you can use a zig zag or triple zig zag stitch.
Now that you know how to sew with knit fabric, make sure to check out on of the patterns below that are designed for use with knit fabric. These are some of my favorite things to sew and to wear and I’m sure you’ll love them too.
The Lou Box Top is a versatile, loose fitting top with two neckline options and three hem options, for a total of six different silhouettes. Designed with beginners in mind, the steps are very easy to follow, using the most basic techniques and the loose fit of the design requires minimal fitting. It's a great project for beginners looking to get their feet wet and for more experienced sewists who want to add some quick-to-make basics to their wardrobe.
This is a digital pdf pattern that includes a print-at-home pattern, copy shop pattern and illustrated instructions for both woven and knit fabrics. THIS IS NOT A PHYSICAL PRODUCT.
After checkout, you will receive a link to the pattern that will be active for 24 hours after you click it. Prices are in USD.
The Lou Box Dress 1 is a loose-fitting cocoon style dress. Worn alone, it’s perfect for warm summer days. Paired with a sweater, tights and boots, it will take you through the colder months. Make it in linen for a casual look or printed silk for a luxurious night out. View A features a medium scoop neck, 3/4 length sleeves with cuffs, in-seam pockets and a knee-length skirt. View B features short cuff sleeves and patch pockets. Instructions are included for sewing the dress in both woven and knit fabrics.
This digital pattern includes an illustrated, step-by-step instruction booklet, a print-at-home layered pattern for letter or A4 size paper, a US copy shop pattern and an A0 size pattern.
Model is 5’11” and is wearing a size 12.
THIS IS NOT A PHYSICAL PRODUCT. After checkout, you will receive a link to the pattern that will be active for 24 hours after you click it. Prices are in USD.
An oversized sweatshirt with drop-shoulders, dolman sleeves, a shoulder yoke and two-piece sleeves with optional topstitching. View A features a crew neck, a straight body for a gender neutral silhouette and an optional kangaroo pocket. View B is cropped with a scoop neck that narrows to the high hip for a more feminine style. The kangaroo pocket can also be used with View B.
This casual and sporty style is easy to sew and fun to wear. Wear it to the gym, to the beach or anywhere you need an extra layer of warmth. The roomy fit pairs well with jeans and leggings for everyday stylish comfort.
This digital pattern includes an illustrated, step-by-step instruction booklet, a print-at-home layered pattern for letter or A4 size paper, a US copy shop pattern and an A0 size pattern. Additionally, there is a printable color blocking worksheet to test out color arrangements before cutting your fabric.
Model is 5’11” and is wearing a size D.
THIS IS NOT A PHYSICAL PRODUCT. After checkout, you will receive a link to the pattern that will be active for 24 hours after you click it. Prices are in USD.
For extra help sewing with knit fabric, check out the posts below. And if you have more questions, let me know in the comments. Happy sewing!
