How to Sew the Waistband and Hem — Jodi Knit Pants Sewalong Day 5

Welcome to the fifth and final installment of the Jodi Knit pants sewalong. In today's video post, I’ll show you the second half of sewing the pants. First, I’ll share the tools and supplies that I use for these steps. Then, I show how to sew the buttonholes for the drawstring, how to assemble the waistband and attach it to the pants, how to insert the elastic and finally how to hem the pant legs. Let’s get started!

CHECK OUT THE JODI PATTERN IN THE SHOP

Watch the video above (or on YouTube) for all the details on sewing the waistband and the pant leg hem.

TIMESTAMPS

00:06 About the Jodi Knit Pants Pattern

00:46 Tools and Supplies

02:53 Assemble Waistband

04:42 Stitch waistband to pants

06:53 Insert elastic

09:00 Hem pant legs

OTHER VIDEO TUTORIALS REFERENCED

Sewing Buttonholes

Twin Needle Tips

TOOLS USED IN THE VIDEO

In the video (at timestamp 00:46), I talk about the tools and supplies I use for these sewing steps. Read on for more details and links. (Note, some links are affiliate links.)

Sewing Machine Needles

One of the most important tools in sewing is the sewing machine needle. Using a needle that matches your fabric will ensure better stitch quality and less frustration. For knit fabric, I recommend using a Ballpoint or Jersey Needle. They come in different weights so if your fabric is lighter, you can use a thinner needle. Or, if you are using heavy fabric, use a thicker needle.

In the video, I’m also using a Twin Needle to stitch the hem. It can take a little practice to achieve good twin needle stitching. So make sure to check out my tips.

Thread

As with all sewing projects, you’ll need a regular all-purpose (polyester or cotton) thread to sew your garment. If you are using a twin needle, you might want to try using a Wooly Nylon thread in the bobbin. This thread has stretch built in and will help the twin needle stitches lay flat.

2” (5cm) wide Elastic

I like to use what’s called Soft Waistband Elastic because it’s thinner and has a lot of stretch. In the past, I’ve bought it at Joann’s. I also found this option from the Dritz brand.

Drawstring

My favorite kind of drawstring is cotton twill tape. I like the softness of the 100% cotton and the texture of the twill weaving. You can buy it in a variety of widths. I would go for a 1/4” or 1/2” for a drawstring. I found options on Amazon and on Wawak.

Washaway Hem Adhesive

When hemming the pants, you may find it handy to use a washaway fusible tape to hold the hem in place. This can also help twin needle stitching lay flat. The one I see recommended the most is HeatnBond Soft Stretch.

About the Sew DIY Jodi pattern:

The Jodi Wide Leg Knit pants are the perfect mix of style and comfort. These ankle length pants feature angled side seam pockets, a medium rise and a lightly gathered elastic waistband. These pants are easy to sew, comfortable to wear and have a stylish wide leg. 

This pattern is rated as Advanced Beginner. It’s helpful to have experience sewing with knit fabric but this is easy enough to sew as your first knit fabric sewing project. There are blog posts in the sewalong to help you.

Theses pants are designed to have a “skim” fit with just a little bit of negative ease. You’ll have all the comfort of stretch knit fabric but none of the tightness of a garment like leggings. See the size chart for more details.

If you’d like to save this post for later, you can save the image below to Pinterest. Happy sewing!